Soil:

Tomatoes need rich well-draining soil that stays moist but not soggy. Work compost, aged manure, worm castings, or a combination into existing soil. They prefer a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

Amendments & fertilizer:

Tomatoes are fast growers and heavy feeders, needing regular supplemental fertilizer to produce well. There are many different methods and amendments available.

• At planting time, add a slow-release fertilizer to the planting hole according to instructions. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer or a blend formulated for tomatoes.
• Water newly planted seedlings with a starter fertilizer solution to jump-start growth.
• Once plants begin to set fruit, fertilize every 1-2 weeks with fish emulsion, compost tea, or other water-soluble organic fertilizer.
• Make sure plants receive adequate calcium to help prevent blossom end rot.
• Other organic supplements that benefit tomatoes include bone meal, cottonseed meal, lime, egg shells, and used coffee grounds.

For more tips on fertilizing: Garden Fertilizer 101

Watering:

Plants need regular water to grow well. The rule of thumb is to water slowly and deeply to encourage a deep root system.

• Irrigate in the morning and avoid overhead watering, which will help prevent fungal diseases.
• Underwatering will stress plants and stunt growth.
• Overwatering can cause root rot, fungal disease, and loss of fruit quality.
• Irregular watering can result in problems such as blossom drop, fruit cracking, or blossom end rot.
• For raised beds and plots, use drip irrigation or a soaker hose to deliver water to the roots most efficiently.
• For containers, water around the base of the plant with a watering wand. Water twice weekly, or more often during extreme heat spells.

Pruning tomato plants:

To direct energy toward producing fruit rather than foliage, tomato plants can be pruned, though it’s not necessary. Pruning can also help ward off pests and diseases by increasing air circulation and light.

• Pinch out suckers that grow between the main stem and branches; these will produce few if any fruits.
• Remove the suckers when small (less than pencil width) to prevent plant shock.
• Trim out lower branches to prevent water splash on the leaves, which can promote fungal diseases.
• Indeterminate vining types can be pruned down to a single leader so they can be trained up a stake or string trellis.

Support:

Tomatoes need support to keep plants and fruits off the ground. Use stakes or tomato cages for small determinate bush types. Larger indeterminate vining types will need heavy duty stakes or cages, ladders, or trellises.

Harvesting:

Fruit should be left on the plant plant as long as possible to develop the best flavor. Here are some tips to help you determine if your tomatoes are ready to be picked:

• Ripe fruit should be fully colored, though some heirlooms can retain some green around the stems.
• Fruit should be firm but slightly soft, not mushy.
• Plum and other types with less water content will stay more firm.
• Cherry tomatoes are susceptible to cracking if left on the vine for too long.
• Overripe fruits may drop off the plant.

Picked fruit should be kept at room temperature on a counter or windowsill until using. Storing in the refrigerator can result in loss of flavor.

Once daytime temperatures fall below 60 degrees F, fruit will cease ripening. When this occurs, pull up the entire plant and hang upside down in a dark space such as the garage or basement to finish ripening. Or, pick and store unripened fruits in a paper bag or cardboard box between layers of newspaper to finish ripening. Use green tomatoes fresh, cooked, or preserved.